A Full Day in Montmartre
Montmartre has been done to death, and there are a million reasons why. Regardless, it’s always worth another visit when you come to Paris. Centered on the hill crowning Paris’ 18th arrondissement, Montmartre maintains its village vibe today. An oasis within Europe’s only megacity. You can tell how much I love it already, I’m sure.
This guide to a day in Montmartre is designed to ensure you hit some of the classic highlights that you could probably see a thousand times, but intertwined with good coffee, food, and drinks that you might not yet have had the pleasure of finding. Here’s a little itinerary for a day in Montmartre:
Morning
In my book, every good morning starts with a cup of good coffee. If you care as much as I do about the quality of your cuppa (and I wrote a whole guide to good coffee in Paris), then you’ll want to get to Sylon de Montmartre on your way up the hill. It’s been highlighted in a number of my vlogs in the past, but their obsession with the craft of creating coffee combines beautifully with their kind and welcoming vibe - ensuring that I learn something new every time while simultaneously feeling at home.
After coffee and whatever treats you decide to try, there are two options for pastries that we can take with us to a little park around the corner. Pain Pain is a modernized and award winning boulangerie and patisserie, racking up a variety of awards in a buzzing, gold-laced environment.
Of course if you’re feeling like a taste of what the French are doing with an American classic, then you’ll find Dr. Donuts just a stone’s throw away from Sylon. I’ve had the phrase “Boneshaker is the only donut game in town” tattooed to the back of my eyelids for so long that it shocked me to find such a tasty treat near the base of the hill. Grab your preferred sweet treat and head back up towards Abbesses.
The famous “Wall of Love,” or “Mur de je t’aime” is located in Square Jehan Rictus, the park just behind the Abbesses metro stop and across the way from the big red brick church. Pick a bench a little ways back from the wall and enjoy your treats while entertained by countless couples attempting to take a selfie while passionately kissing at the same time.
Classics And Lunch
Feeling caffeinated and ready to start moving? Time to stroll up Rue la Vieuville for a little window shopping. As the road curves you’ll be greeted with a choice: take the long wandering route up the hill or cut straight up by stair? This is entirely up to you, but don’t miss the photo opportunity these iconic stairways will provide, however you manage to get to the top.
The windy route will bring you to Place Émile-Goudeau, a quaint square abbutted by cafes with a charming view and my favorite pet store in Paris, Koira. What more unique souvenir could there be than a French hard cheese chew for your friend’s dog?
Just above these twists and turns you’ll find Place du Tertre, often referred to as the Artist’s Square (and not just because pronouncing that many French “r”s in one word can split your palette). Just beyond it, Sacre Coeur, the crown jewel of the city. I made this recommendation in my guide, and have started saying it everywhere else: be sure to go behind the church to Square Marcel Bleustein Blanchet for an underappreciated view of Sacre Coeur, and a quieter park for a break or a picnic.
Ready to eat? Let’s make a little hop down from Square Marcel Bleustein Blanchet to Bobby, serving an oven-fired pizza that will put some strength back in those hill-weary legs of yours. And you’ll need that strength, because we’re about to head back up.
Afternoon Strolls and Drinks
There are too many options to choose from, so we’ll have to come back to Montmartre another day. For now, I’m going to suggest you make your way up the hill again by way of Rue Becquerel to Les 5 Marches for your afternoon coffee. Why take this route? Because it provides a few options for points of interest along the way, assuming you’d like to digest a bit before tossing back another drink.
For one, you’ll pass the famous Vignes du Clos - Montmartre’s very own vineyard. It’s cute, but I can’t vouch for the wine. It also brings you within a block of the La Maison Rose if that’s your thing, so you can easily divert up the hill slightly to see it. And if you DO make your way up to La Maison Rose, you could always hit up the Musée de Montmartre around the corner before grabbing your coffee, but I’d prefer the coffee first.
Why? Because then immediately after visiting the museum you can stop in their cafe, Le Café Renoir for a little afternoon drink or, as we say around here, an apéro. Want to get out of the museum for something a little different? Try a local French brew down the hill at Le Barbylone, a fantastic little taphouse that hosts a wide variety of craft beer and natural wine (open after 4PM so don’t go too early). And of course, should your stamina falter on the way, there are plenty of other options you’ll discover before making it that far.
Evening Stroll and Dinner
Wow, this is a full day in Montmartre, isn’t it? But we’re here to make the most of what time we have, so let’s get back on the road! You’ll want to get to the Saint Vincent Cemetery before 5:30PM to have a stroll and contemplate the meaning and brevity of life. In fact this might be better done before you wander down the hill to Le Barbylone, for mortality is a thing best mulled over hoppy froth, but I leave that to your discretion.
Either way, you’ve made reservations for dinner right? Because Hôtel Particulier Montmartre fills up fast and, if you don’t have reservations, you’re going hungry. Leaving Saint Vincent’s cemetery and heading up the gentle bend of Avenue Junot, you’ll find a privatized alleyway off to your right as you come around the bend. Hit the buzzer, walk halfway down the street, and you’ll find it on your left.
They have a cocktail bar, Le Très Particulier, but as of writing this the cocktail bar is “temporarily closed.” If it opens again anytime soon, it’s the spot you’re more likely to wind up if you don’t make a reservation, and where I initially intended to end the night in this video. But since we’re finishing up dinner and need just one more drink, let’s go mingle at La Bascule. A corner bar with a strong local flare, La Bascule has a cozy and unpretentious vibe that will help to settle us in for the night, or kick us off if things are only just getting started.
And I leave the rest of the night to you. I hope you enjoyed this wander through Montmartre with me. If you did, be sure to grab a copy of my guide to Paris before you go, it’ll fill the rest of your time with tons of delicious goodness. There’s also a video version of this guide over on my YouTube channel, so be sure to check that out.
